In the remote northern reaches of Arizona lies a hidden paradise for photographers and adventurers—Vermillion Cliffs National Monument. This 294,000-acre sanctuary of protected wilderness offers visual splendors that rival the most celebrated national parks of the American Southwest. Let me take you on a journey through this remarkable landscape that has captivated the hearts of explorers for generations.
The Gateway: Wirepass Trailhead
The adventure begins at the Wirepass trailhead, accessible via House Rock Road from either Page, Arizona or Kanab, Utah. After driving approximately 8.5 miles south from Route 89, you’ll find yourself at a pivotal junction that opens the door to two extraordinary experiences.
Buckskin Gulch: Nature’s Masterpiece
Turn right at the T-intersection marked by towering rock walls, and you’ll enter Buckskin Gulch—one of the most mesmerizing slot canyons in the world. On sunny days, magic happens as light cascades through the narrow opening above, creating a warm, ethereal glow against the multi-colored sandstone walls. The key to capturing this beauty lies in framing your photographs to exclude the sky, focusing instead on the intricate dance of light and shadow that brings the canyon’s vibrant hues to life.
As I ventured deeper into this natural corridor, the walls narrowed to mere inches in some places, creating an intimate experience unlike any other. But remember, such beauty comes with risks—always check weather forecasts meticulously, as flash floods can transform these serene passages into dangerous torrents within minutes.
The Wave: A Landscape from Dreams
The alternative path from Wirepass leads to North Coyote Buttes and its crown jewel—The Wave. This iconic formation, with its flowing lines of red sandstone, represents nature’s artistry at its finest. Securing a permit for this area feels like winning a golden ticket, available through either an advance online lottery or limited day-before permits at the BLM office in Kanab.
As the afternoon sun cast long shadows across The Wave’s undulating surface, I discovered a small depression occasionally filled with rainwater, creating mirror-like reflections that doubled the visual impact. Just 150 yards above, another marvel awaited—swirled sandstone formations that glow with unbelievable intensity when bathed in the golden light of approaching sunset.
Beyond the Crowds: South Coyote Buttes
For those seeking solitude among geological wonders, South Coyote Buttes offers remarkable rewards for extra effort. My four-wheel-drive vehicle tackled challenging terrain of deep sand and exposed bedrock, leading to the distinctive “teepee” formations that stand like ancient sentinels against the vast desert sky. Here, away from the crowds, I found a profound connection with the landscape that felt almost spiritual in its intensity.
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Lake Powell’s Hidden Treasure: Gunsight Butte
Venturing beyond Vermillion Cliffs proper, I discovered Gunsight Butte rising dramatically from Lake Powell’s blue waters. The journey required careful navigation of unmarked dirt roads north of Big Water, Utah, but the panoramic vista that greeted me justified every challenging mile. The stark contrast of rusty red rock against azure water created photographic compositions of stunning impact, especially as the setting sun painted everything in warm, golden tones.
Planning Your Own Vermillion Cliffs Expedition
Most of these natural treasures remain accessible with standard vehicles on well-maintained unpaved roads, with South Coyote Buttes being the notable exception. Both Page, Arizona and Kanab, Utah offer comfortable bases for exploration, with accommodations ranging from rustic campgrounds to modern hotels.
As I packed my camera gear and prepared to leave this remarkable landscape, I reminded myself of our collective responsibility to preserve these fragile formations. The increasing popularity of these once-secret locations has brought new challenges, making responsible visitation more important than ever.
Whether you come to capture images of incomparable beauty or simply to stand in awe before nature’s grandeur, Vermillion Cliffs National Monument offers experiences that will remain etched in your memory long after you’ve returned home. In this remarkable corner of the Southwest, every visit becomes a journey of discovery through landscapes that seem to belong to another world entirely.
